Problems At The Paso Canoas Border
Jan 10th, 2008 by Don Ray
I went to the Gringos of David afternoon meeting today at El Fogon. I talked to one of the attendees and heard about the most outrageous process that has apparently been put into place.
If you are a Panama Pensionado and are planning on driving into Costa Rica, there is now one very bad process you are going to have to go through at Paso Canoas. I asked the individual to send me an email describing his experience, and when he sends it, I will replace or augment, what I am going to write, with his exact words.
Here is what he said he had to do. Besides the things I described in a previous post, after he showed the border official his passport, he was asked for his Pensionado card. He thought they just wanted to look at it, but they kept it. If he had not given it to them, he said he would not have been able to cross. They said it would be returned when he returned.
When he returned, from Costa Rica, the office could not find his card. He said he and the senior official at Paso Canoas went through what he described as around 300 Pensionado cards that were being held. His card still could not be found. He was allowed to enter and told that he would have to file a form with the police stating it had been lost/stolen.
To make it worse, he had to pay $100 to have a new card issued. Now this is absolutely insane. First, there is no need for them to keep a Pensionado card. If you have a Pensionado card and you go to Costa Rica, you have to have a multi-visa stamp in your passport. You cannot get that stamp unless you have the Pensionado card and have paid $100 for the 2 year stamp.
Even so, if they had a valid reason for retaining the card, then they should have a responsibility to return it. If they lose it, and $100 is required to issue another, then that $100 should be paid by the office that lost it. Doing anything other than that is criminal.
I have a planned Costa Rica trip in the near future. I intend to go to the David Immigration office, within the next week, and ask about this new process and ask the reason for it and why the multi-visa stamp is not sufficient. The visit should be interesting.
UPDATE: I received the email from the person that had the border experience and it follows:
Hi Don,
we discussed these issues at the thursday get togather.Border at Paso Canoa
Was on my way to Gulfeto. Presented my passport to Panama Customs, The agent wanted to see my residency card. The agent stamped my passport and kept my card. I asked him to give it back, he replied I would get it back when I return to Panama.
When I returned 4 days later I had my passport stamped to return but the agents could not find my residency card. After looking 2 hours I came back to David.
Monday I went to Immigration as I was told to do by Customs. The Immigration Official instructed me to report my card stolen and file a police report and return with 100.00 for a new card.
What a scam.
Alert at U.S. Customs
You must have 4 blank pages in your passport to leave the U.S.Others need to be aware of traps in the system here.
Thanks,
Charlie Haynes
UPDATE: I have posted an follow up to this post here.


Hey Don Ray - thanks for the heads up on this. We are also planning a driving trip to CR in the near future and are in the process of gathering all of the documents you mentioned in your Feb. 2007 posting.
Am curious to read the account of the gentleman whose card was confiscated. Did he have the multi-exit visa? I’ve heard stories of cards being confiscated if you don’t have this stamp in your passport… Wonder if any of our local lawyers - specializing in immigration issues - read CC? Would be interested in their take on the situation.
I suppose if one went through Paso Canoas and flew from San Jose to the States and then return to Panama via Panama City then they would have the card available at Tocumen.
First impression. Hmmm, sounds like a great money making scam. Keep the card, and for some bucks, sell it to someone else? Am I being overly cynical?
Also, because Don and I just got our pensionado visas on Wednesday, I’m a bit “stupid” about this. Is is the Panamanian officials, or the Costa Rican officials who are keeping the cards? I know we’ll be wanting to visit Costa Rica at some point in the future.
I’ll read your previous post, as well. Haven’t done that yet.
Thanks Don Ray
Charlotte
since a new card cost $100, i never carry my original. i carry a color copy that’s been plastic coated. no one can tell the difference. sounds like i sould get another copy made…
Hi DSD. He said he had a current multi-visa stamp in his passport and they didn’t care. They still wanted his Pensionado card. If you go by the local offices ahead of me, let me know what you find out. Of course I don’t think David talks to Paso Conoas.
Hi John,
That is obviously a flaw in their process. The person that I talked to was driving, but I don’t know how they would have known he wasn’t catching a bus on the CR side.
Hi Charlotte.
No, it was the Panama border agents that kept the card. Costa Rica could care less. They are only interested in your stamping your passport.
Hi Bob,
Good idea. I guess I need to make some copies too. Wonder where I go to get them laminated?
Don,
Please clarify: Which side of the border kept the card, which I presume is this man’s cedula…The Panamanian or Costa Rican immigration office?
Just wondering.. as it seems to me that ever since the Panamanian gov’t stuck it to tourists with their new 30 day tourist visa, their border people have developed an increasing attitude problem at Paso Canoas. Why in the hell would these thugs need a person’s cedula when they swipe your PPort through their scanner anyhow? It continues to “amaze” and at the same time infuriate me that obviously law abiding people are increasingly at risk for more difficult travel and a level of intrusiveness that is absolutely UNCALLED for, except when you consider who the real bad guys are.
Alternatively, I find the CR border people most pleasant, helpful and not really concerned with details such as: ‘What did I buy in Panama etc..’ I naturally say ‘nothing’ when asked and ‘PURA VIDA & Todo Bien!!!’ with a big smile on my face and…..it’s off we go. Back home to the lawless land of PURA VIDA!
It’s all probably part of the GWOT… Gotta love it!
It was the Panama Side. Costa Rica could care less it you are a Panama resident.
It continues to “amaze” and at the same time infuriate me that obviously law abiding people are increasingly at risk for more difficult travel and a level of intrusiveness that is absolutely UNCALLED for
Now, let me see, is this person above describing the United States or Panama? You all must not be reading the papers from the states.
Hi Tom. This is a US Citizen who has a Panama Pensionado Card talking about problems at the Panama Border office driving into Costa Rica.
Hi Don Ray:
I was being facetious. KK could just as easily have been describing problems with transportation in the United States. Can you imagine a foreign visitor trying to figure out USA visa regulations, airport security, and a variety of odd laws such as how much money you can carry out of the country.
Recently, a survey found that the Transportation Security Administration is the most despised agency of the federal government. That is saying a lot when you figure that the TSA has to compete in that contest with the IRS, which for all the complaints has a “corporate” culture of treating people with courtesy. As for the TSA, rude behavior combined with enforcing arbitrary rules will win the most-despised contest every time.
I understand Tom. Sometimes I am slower than other times.
Another bogus activity on the Panama side of Paso Canoas is collecting $1 stamp for the “Distrito de Baru”. I have crossed many borders on maybe 3 dozen countries and never encountered this. Could you imagine San Diego County California collecting this from the Tijuana crossing! The last time the stamp seller tried to get me to buy a stamp for leaving. The Panama immigration guy says to me “We don’t have anything to do with them”. Well fine then why are they selling these things on gov’t property and putting them into passports. What a load.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Thanks for these great tips.
Forgive my ignorance (and don’t laugh), but is there a charge when one crosses the border?
There should be no charge for crossing the border, but that doesn’t mean that there will not be anyone that will not try to get you to give them money.
This is an important issue. You will need the card in Costa Rica. A few years ago I flew Orlando to San Jose on Air Martin because it was a better deal than flying to Panama City. When I went to buy my bus ticket from Tica Bus the clerk demanded that I buy a round trip ticket. I pulled out my I.D. card to prove to him I was a resident of Panama and not a tourist. When he saw the card he was satisfied with an one way ticket.
Folks,
C’mon over to CR! The water’s fine and the local law enforcement is friendly almost to a fault! Border personnel are easy going and so far, a pleasure to deal with. Much of what you read regarding crime is apparently true, so be careful! Stay out of San Jose and try to avoid certain beaches within close proximity to same..
*Sunshine*:, bring money with you when you cross. Depending on whether you drive or not, costs are involved to varying degrees especially if you will be taking a vehicle.
*Tom*: You are correct, sir. I could have been describing travel hassles in any of many locations. Brace yourself..
*John*: Also makes a valid point! Very important! What if one is a thru traveler? What happens to your ID card then?? Do the ‘authorities’ Fed Ex it ahead to meet you at your potentially far-away destination?!
Are any of these legislators thinking independent of ‘outside’ influences? I dare say ‘not’!
PS. For those interested in CR news. Log on to amcostarica.com and read all about the new Biometric ID card laws to go into effect. Story ran about a month ago. Not good…
KK
Sorry KK. No offense intended, but I have just talked to too many people that have had problems there, and have moved to Panama to get away from them. You are the one exception, that touts the goodness of Costa Rica.
Don,
& I’m not even with the Ministry of Tourism!! Imagine that! I should reiterate for the readers that we *do* live out in the ‘country’ about 35 minutes from the small City of San Isidro de El General in a small farming/coffee growing community where everybody seems to know each other by way of genetics or marriage. We have made friends with some longtime locals and everybody is pretty darn friendly. While I do miss the quick access to services that you enjoy in David, for example, or even Volcan where I could easily walk to about 20 restaurants etc.. Being away has definite advantages for some, among whom we count ourselves!
PURA VIDA
KK
In the right country setting, things can be pretty good.
Thanks Don and KK for the responses. So in theory there should be no charge when crossing the border; but in practice there tends to be some cost.
May I ask what sum of money I should be thinking of taking with me for the crossing… Both say for taking a car; and alternatively for going over on a bus/coach?
To this point, I have never paid anything, except to make copies of documents for driving a car and those were 10 cens per page. I have only heard of people coming from CR being asked to buy a return bus ticket, but that wasn’t a given either. There should be no charge.
There will be tons of people at both CR and Panama boarder stations, wanting to help and hoping you are give them money. These people are just standing around looking for people they know don’t speak Spanish. I just ignore them.
sunshine:
Ok. If you are taking a bus etc.. just bring what you are going to spend at your destination. Some items are more expensive in CR than Panama. Bring greenbacks and change them at a regular bank in CR, there are lots. You’ll get a better exchange rate this way. At the border, in this case (without a vehicle), you’re good to go. A simple crossing is just a matter of checking out of Panama first and then checking into CR. Both simple stamps in your passport. Then you’re on your way..Reverse process on the way back.
IF you care to cross from Panama to CR with your vehicle, it’s a little more involved. Well, A LOT more involved and will require about 4-5 hours of horsing around (including actual time at the border).
There are a number of steps to this process. If you want ‘exact’ details let me know or provide an email address as I do not want to fill this page with garbage that is off-topic. Anyhow, I can tell you that the vehicle crossing with run about $30 or so (mandatory insurance on CR side [$15], car sprayed with insecticide or whatever it is [$5] and a few other small items that escape me..and the time factor.. but it’s a heck of alot cheaper to bring your ride than renting a vehicle in CR which runs $40-60/day..
BTW, when we drive our car from CR [car obviously registered here, in CR] to Panama, it’s MUCH easier than the other way around. Almost a joke, really….!
Hi Don Ray - Did you ever hear back from this individual that had problems at the frontera? I’ve been asking around and no-one has had this happen to them or heard of it before this past week. Curious as to when this happened to him.
Yes DSD. I has appended his email to the bottom of the post.
KK, I never had to pay any of those fees in CR that I can remember on the last time I drove in CR.
Don,
There’s an insurance (Seguro) window just to the right of the CR immigration windows as you face them. You’ll see the little sign above it..We were told by a pretty well informed Gringo acquaintance of ours, who crosses with his vehicle very frequently, that the insurance has to be purchased (cost $15). Last time we crossed from Panama to CR with the truck, we paid it even though we carried supplemental coverage through our Panama insurance outfit. Also, there’s the spray booth just before CR immigration on the right hand side. You’re supposed to go pay the guy in the little adjacent ‘office’ with the tinted windows something akin to $5 to have your vehicle sprayed with a foul smelling anti-something agent. We’ve learned to drive right past the spray booth and nobody seems to care or notice! I mean, it’s pretty ridiculous to think that these same ‘pathogens’ cannot cross borders all by themselves!!
KK. I stand corrected. I just checked and we also paid for that insurance. Since I didn’t pay it, I didn’t know it was paid. However, $15 is cheap. Thanks for making me check and understand that I was wrong. We also paid for fumigating the car.
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